Experience Progressive Aboriginal Cuisine With Chef Zach Keeshig

WORDS: Stef Richardson + PHOTOS: Alyssa Joline Photography

*This blog reflects my experience in 2020 when Zach was just beginning his culinary journey. Check out Zach’s new iteration of Naagan, a restaurant located in Owen Sound. Reservations recommended.
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As I woke up on my 28th birthday, little did I know I was about to immerse myself into one of the best dining experiences of the year. Alyssa and I rolled up to the Riverstone Eco Retreat (owned by Elephant Thoughts) in Durham, Ontario ready to meet Chef Zach Keeshig and his team of interns for an unforgettable meal. Chef Zach Keeshig has curated a 9-course tasting menu known as “Naagan” that incorporates locally foraged + sourced ingredients while beautifully embodying traditions and delicacies of his Indigenous heritage.

CHEF ZACH KEESHIG // PLATING MAGIC

CHEF ZACH KEESHIG // PLATING MAGIC

SOURDOUGH W/ HOMEMADE MAPLE BUTTER // AMUSE BOUCHE

SOURDOUGH W/ HOMEMADE MAPLE BUTTER // AMUSE BOUCHE

BRENDA ON THE WOOD FIRE OVEN

BRENDA ON THE WOOD FIRE OVEN

As we were greeted by Chef Zach and Lisa + Jackie of Elephant Thoughts, we couldn’t help but look around at beautiful forest that surrounded us and the smells and sounds of tranquility. The excitement that we were feeling in that moment is indescribable and I’m sure that the other 3 lunch guests were feeling the exact same way.

STEF RICHARDSON // LOKAL DIGS

STEF RICHARDSON // LOKAL DIGS

“A MEMORY FROM MY CHILDHOOD” // CURED RAINBOW TROUT

“A MEMORY FROM MY CHILDHOOD” // CURED RAINBOW TROUT

In single file fashion, smiles peaking left to right, we headed towards the Saugeen River where they had a small dining area set up for us to enjoy the first 3 dishes of the day. Burning coals + drool-worthy aromas filled the air as Chef Zach Keeshig, Muckpaloo and Brenda (Elephant Thoughts Culinary Interns) began plating and serving up the dishes. For the amuse bouche course, Chef Zach took advantage of the wood fired oven which set the tone for this foraged to fork tasting menu. I speak for both Alyssa and myself when I say that man oh man, WE LIVE for the wood fire oven. Coming straight out of the man-made oven, we devoured a sourdough bun with homemade butter flavoured with Riverstone maple syrup + herbs from the garden. The lather, the melt, the bites ~ we immersed ourselves into it all.

A Memory From My Childhood

Our favourite however had to be the dish “A memory from my childhood” which celebrated wild herb cured rainbow trout, Ojibwa bannock cooked in the wood fire oven and topped with light whip cream and fresh dill. As with every component of the day, Chef Zach made sure to preface the dishes with a short anecdote usually tying in the ingredients with family upbringing and aboriginal heritage. This dish here was inspired by summer days with his Grandma and how she’d make bannock wrapped hot dogs for him to eat. He wanted to re-create something innovative that encompassed this memory while paying homage to his family. We ate it with our hands and it was absolutely delicious.

CHEF ZACH KEESHIG // PREPPING LAMB FLATBREAD

CHEF ZACH KEESHIG // PREPPING LAMB FLATBREAD

It seemed like every bite we’d look up and catch the eyes of our fellow lunch guests enjoying the meal just the same. With bellies already feeling so incredibly happy, we headed back to the Eco Nest for the second half of the tasting. Here, we nibbled on whitefish cooked in birch bark w/ a lemon balm sauce, Hi-Berry raspberry sorbet with dehydrated strawberry dust and our drool-worthy fave, the Ox Luxury + Scrap dish which was the-most-tender sous vide tenderloin paired with a roasted beet puree and a braised beef tongue ravioli.

We drooled.

Days like this one remind me how grateful I am to live in Ontario and how grateful I am to meet such inventive, inclusive and straight-up talented chef’s like Zach. Elephant Thoughts has an amazing internship program through Riverstone that hosts a group of Indigenous individuals who play a huge role in growing, harvesting and cooking alongside Chef Zach. Riverstone is creating community and we felt that in our visit.

CHEF ZACH KEESHIG // RIVERSTONE GARDEN

CHEF ZACH KEESHIG // RIVERSTONE GARDEN

WILD MINT CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE / RIVERSTONE MAPLE SPONGE TOFFEE

WILD MINT CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE / RIVERSTONE MAPLE SPONGE TOFFEE

It’s worth highlighting, the food brought upon us during the Naagan experience utilized all things local - everything from wild mint, chicory root, maple syrup, lemon balm, raspberries to rainbow trout, cattail and garden kale.

And of course, what is a meal without dessert. Chef Zach served us a few amazing little tastes - foraged chicory root ice cream popsicle, a maple tart, wild mint chocolate truffle and a Riverstone maple sponge toffee. SO DANG GOOD.

The Naagan dining experience is one for the books. Through every moment, every dish, and every story, you’ll get a glimpse at the monumental memories + experiences that brought Chef Zach to this final spot on the plate. Join him as we celebrate a progressive aboriginal spread and all that is foraged and right at our fingertips.

Visit Zach’s Facebook page for more info on how to book (new dates launching soon!) and make sure to check out Elephant Thoughts to familiarize yourself on their community + country wide contributions. They do incredible things for schools and Indigenous communities, enriching + educating all on diversity, sustainability and personal growth.

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Elephant Thoughts - https://www.elephantthoughts.com/
Elephant Thoughts is a registered Canadian charity, founded in 2002 by a group of teachers, principals and professional educators. They work with schools across Canada including more than 100 Indigenous schools in communities annually.

Zach Keeshig
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Chef-Zach-Keeshig-1701462226767046/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/keeshig90/